Nataz "Adventures in Eating"

Now, when you see a banner like that hanging on the front entrance of a restaurant, you either think "yeah, sure" or "ok, let's see." We opted for the latter and gave Nataz in North Branford a shot at adventurous dining.

The concept is simple: price fixe four-course meals and BYOB. The catch is... there's no menu. The dinners are different every night, which makes it an adventure for most diners. And a potential hazard for vegans. Fortunately, we spoke with owner and executive chef, Rik, prior to arriving to be sure he could accommodate my no-eggs, no-dairy, no-gluten request, and he went out of his way to do so. In fact, the service here is the best I've ever enjoyed. Waitstaff is pleasant and attentive, and Rik spends half his time out on the floor greeting and serving guests (unless there's a twin doing double-duty in the kitchen... that could be the secret).

He prepared a special appetizer of Fruit Ceviche, a citrus marinated mix of fresh pear, pineapple and tomato, while my companion got a mini Caprese Salad with an assortment of artisan cheezes arranged on a platter like an artist's pallette.

My salad was mixed greens, fresh pineapple and pear slices tossed with a balsamic vinagrette. It would've been topped by a tangle of breaded and fried onion strips, but alas, these were coated in flour so I had to forgo the crunchy treats (and who needs those pesky trans fats anyway?). A basket of warm and toasty bread and a tray of accoutrements such as herbed olive oil, fresh butter and white bean compote accompanied the salad.

For my entree, Chef Rik prepared a primavera with mushrooms in a marsala wine sauce atop rice. It was a colorful array of snap peas, zucchini, yellow squash, tomato and carrot, and flavorful (though I added a bit of the herbed olive oil and fresh black pepper to perk it up - next time I'll remember my vegan Parm!).

My dessert was almost a reprise of my appetizer, minus the pickled flavor. Still, I can't complain about a champagne glass filled with fresh pineapple, strawberries and mango. The perfect palate cleanser.

All in all, I enjoyed my dining experience, mostly because of the effort made by the chef and his staff. I know it's tough for a "regular" restaurant to please a vegan. This kinda reminded me of going to my mom's house for dinner; it's just nice to be home.

Pot au Pho

Brrrr.... it's nights like this - frigid, windswept and threatening - when I find myself craving pho, that delectably light, yet warm and satisfying Vietnamese soup that's a one-bowl meal. Last night was no exception. We had a holiday party on the late night agenda, yet being that I knew my dining options would be limited once we arrived, the plan was to eat ahead. So we headed downtown to Whitney Ave. to this reliable little hideaway.

Set up a flight of stairs from the streetside Asian apothecary, Pot au Pho is a cozy spot for an informal, inexpensive and quick meal. The upstairs has two tables with limited seating, so you're welcomed downstairs to join the small but lively college crowd that typically gathers most weeknights.

We started our meal with the summer rolls, thin rice paper packages filled with rice noodles, shredded cabbage and fresh basil accompanied by a peanut dipping sauce and spiralized pickled carrot salad. I chose the Soup Chay for my entree, a humungous bowl brimming with clear broth flavored with Star Anise, baby bok choy, carrot rounds, shiitake mushrooms and chunks of steamed tofu. It's amazing how such light fare can prove to be so filling.

I had my heart set on the delectable banana tapioca pudding for dessert and requested it at the beginning of the meal, only to be crushed when told they had already sold out. This is no ordinary pudding. It's the perfect blend of creaminess with the warmed bananas and chewy tapioca all bathed in a decadent coconut milk cream. I think I may have to make a special trip there this week to get my just desserts.

What's for dinner? Turkish delights!

Last night we were faced with the perennial quandry, "What's for dinner?'' Our first thought was to try the new Kumo Japanese restaurant that opened downtown. It's the second location for this sushi, hibachi and Japanese steakhouse in the New Haven area, the original being located on Skiff Street in Hamden. I wanted a show. I wanted entertainment. I wanted veggies. But I just couldn't get past the "Steakhouse" part of the name, so we opted instead for Istanbul Cafe, the cozy Turkish restaurant on Crown Street.

Now, I know what you're thinking. Lotsa lamb. Exactly. I mean, it's nearly impossible to eat at a Middle Eastern restaurant without being surrounded by kabobs and animals roasting on a spit. But it's so cozy in there. And with temperatures hovering around 30 degrees and a windchill making the air much more frigid, this is what came to mind. Plus, they make a delicious vegetarian red lentil soup.

I recommend their lovely Soquk Meze platter, which offers a sampling of most of their vegetarian appetizers: Nohut Ezme, Patlican Salata, Antep Ezme, Ispanak Ezme, Yaprak Dolma and carrot salad. It is arranged beautifully on a decent sized plate in a thick, colorful ring, almost like a painter's pallette. Note, however, that the Ispanak Ezme and Carrot Salad are made with yogurt, so you'll have to let the non-vegan in your party indulge in those. Everything else is suitable for a vegan. These tasty spreads are served with a basket of warm, crisp and chewy flat bread that I was forced to sample in spite of my gluten sensitivity.

Along with the red lentil soup, I ordered the Imam Bayildi, which is technically an appetizer, but the two together combined to form a perfectly satisfying entree. The Imam Bayildi is a tender baby eggplant served at room temperature that has been roasted in olive oil, stuffed with a blend of green pepper, sautéed onion, garlic, tomato and parsley, and sprinkled with pine nuts. According to the website, "legend has it that a Muslim cleric once ate this dish and was so overwhelmed by its splendid taste that he fainted. It is a rich vegetarian choice." I very nearly swooned each time I took a bite.

As we sat back after our meal in the cushioned and silky festooned booth, to sip some wine and gaze around at our fellow patrons, we noticed a woman reaching for an accordian. "Does she really have an accordian?" I asked. Indeed, she did. And her dining companions matched her musicality by pulling out a clarinet, hand drum and trumpet. For the next half an hour, they seranaded us fortunate few souls brave enough to be out on such a chilly evening with wistful Turkish delights that had many of us clapping and humming along.

Now THAT'S entertainment.

Dining Out: Bentara

Last night this vegan enjoyed a special birthday dinner for a special person at one of New Haven's most popular restaurants, Bentara. We've eaten here on numerous occasions, and the reason why we keep returning is because the atmosphere has that perfect combination of subdued and lively, plus the food is delicious.

Almost always it seems as if we're surrounded by Yale grad students and professors letting loose after a long day of philosophizing. And the conversations continue while slurping down curried rice fettuccini.

I love a restaurant kitchen that can accommodate special requests. Bentara never disappoints on this account. They don't even flinch when I ask that the traditional Pechal appetizer be made without the shrimp paste, and it still tastes fabulous with the slightly spicy peanut sauce drizzled atop a warm stack of bean sprouts, green beans, cucumber, jicama and shredded carrot. It's the perfect way to start a meal.

It's tough deciding on an entree. Again, just about anything on the menu can be modified so that it is vegan-friendly. Last night I had a craving for thick rice noodles, so I ordered the Mee Kari, a noodle soup with a rich, thick coconut curry broth and bits of cabbage, carrot, potato, bean sprouts and green onion. Halfway through the deep bowl I inevitably find myself saying "please, no more!" but it's so good that I almost always stuff myself to the brim and finish the whole thing. Last night I practiced rare restraint (knowing that there were two heaping servings of vegan chocolate pudding waiting in the fridge at home) and asked to have the remaining curry packed up to go. It made for a perfectly satisfying lunch this afternoon, particularly after being augmented by some broccoli and bok choy.

If you're a vegan in search of a good meal in New Haven, be sure to head to this sophisticated little eatery for some flavorful treats.

Thali, too - Now OPEN!!

Ever since moving to New Haven in November, 2006, I've made a point to sample all the chat, chana masala and saag I can find from the many fabulous Indian restaurants within minutes of my apartment. I was in heaven when I discovered Thali on Orange Street. Their delectable dahl and rich and delicious chat are enough for a full meal, but they'll also accommodate us vegans with an off-menu order of coconut curry (just ask). I couldn't believe my eyes when I read recently that the owner of Thali would be opening a vegetarian-only version of the restaurant down on Broadway, tucked into that little corridor next to the Yale Bookstore. You can't see it from the street, but it's there - trust me. As of May 7, Thali, too is now Officially OPEN!! Please go and support them!

It was a warm, breezy evening last night, the perfect weather for outdoor dining. We decided to take a stroll by Thali to see if they were open and were pleased to find a gorgeous and bustling little patio set up with tables and big red umbrellas, so we happily took a cozy table for two. We started the meal with a fantastic masala dosa appetizer; eaten alone, it would have been a hearty meal. We fought each other for the last crumb, it was so yummy. The huge rolled up crepe arrives on an elegant silver tray with 3 pretty little vessels of accompanying sauces. I wasn't sure about the coconut chutney which may have been made with yogurt, but the sambal was a delicious tomato based spiced stew that was hearty and warm. There was also an accompaniment of chili oil with fried Indian spices that was hot, but not too hot. They have an interesting little concept going here: rice and noodle bar. You start with a base of either basmati rice or rice vermicelli ($5), add on some vegetables of choice ($2 each), and any of 5 sauces. We tried the Manchurian (which I'd highly recommend) which had garlic, onion, chili pepper and cilantro, that was actually more subtle and flavorful than you'd imagine, and the Sesame Peanut, which was good, however I detected no sesame or peanut and I'm wondering if I got what I ordered. Considering this was only the second night they were open, I allowed some leeway in working out the kinks. Our server was not very familiar with the menu and needed to bring the general manager over to our table to answer a few questions about dairy in dishes. He assured us there was no dairy used in the rice, noodles or the accompanying sauces. The rest of the menu is filled with creative interpretations of standard northern and southern Indian cuisine and I'm already dying to make a return visit to give them a try. They also have Take Out!! This is a fantastic little addition to New Haven's already plentiful dining scene, but it stands out for its affordability, creativity and pleasant atmosphere. I know where I'll be spending my summer...